XL1 V XL1s

[cash]

is there a major diffrance between the canon XL1 and the XL1s? The offical website just states that there are some little diffrances but nothing major. I am think of buying a XL1 you see, so i am just looking for opinons on them. Cheers
Cashy

[belovedmonster]

what camcorder...
"Canon has introduced a successor to this firm favourite - the XL1S. If you've ever used the XL1, you won't necessarily notice anything different about the new model at first glance. For a start, it looks exactly like its elder sibling. Appearances can be deceiving, as Canon hopes to prove after adding some interesting new features designed to maintain its dominant position within the camcorder market."

"Canon has made significant improvements to the the zoom lens, too - something which has caused problems for users in the past. The toggle on the zoom grip now gives greater control over the speed of zoom, with four settings (Variable, Low, Medium, High) available according to need. For users looking for a delicate 'creep' zoom, the low setting is suitable. The High setting is appropriate for situations where you'd need to very quickly change focal length to adjust the shot composition. The previous version of this camcorder only had one setting, and often zooms could start and stop with a degree of stickiness, so this modification will please many users. Zooming can also be achieved with a toggle on the carry handle, but only three settings (as above but with no variable) is possible."

"One thing that the professionals do like which is rare to find on so-called pro-sumer camcorders is the availability of colour bars. These form the standard test signal output of a camcorder - recognisable by a set of coloured vertical stripes - which are produced as a means of setting up the camera, usually when one camera is to be synchronised to another or when optimising playback of tapes in an edit suite later. The XL1S offers PAL-EBU (Europe) and NTSC-SMPTE (USA etc) bars. Given that the XL1 has been extensively adopted by professional users, Canon is wise to add this feature to the XL1S. You don't have to delve through a complex menu to get at it, either, since a switch is provided on the body just behind the lens mounting."

"Another useful addition is a facility called ClearScan, which Canon has included as a means of overcoming the problems that persist when pointing a video camcorder at a computer screen. Because of highly variable VDU scanning rates, you'll nearly always see a grey or black bar running slowly down the computer screen when featured in shot, and this is due to the fact that the camcorder's CCD's are scanning at one rate, whilst the computer's screen is doing something entirely different. ClearScan is a form of the variable electronic shutter which has been a feature of professional camcorders for a few years now, and helps to eliminate this annoying interference."

"Another addition to this new model is the viewfinder Zebra pattern facility, in which bright areas of an image are represented by black and white stripes to indicate proximity to the exposure limit. Again, this is a utility which the more discerning users find useful - especially when recording under manual control as is often the case. Control over white balance is now possible at three main settings - true white, 5,600K (daylight) and 3,200K (indoors, tungsten) - which, again, is consistent with professional models."

"One thing that will be welcome to many users is the addition of analogue inputs to this new cam. The XL1 could facilitate recording via the FireWire socket from another DV source (other camcorder, or the output of edited sequences from a computer), but the XL1S now makes it possible to re-record from analogue sources, too. Simply plug in composite video, or S-video, cables from another recorder or camcorder and convert to digital in the XL1S. It's also possible to record your favourite TV show direct to DV - very useful if you wish to retain maximum quality. Simply plug in the appropriate video and sound connections and hit the Record button situated among the VCR Playback controls on the carrying handle. Sound levels can be set manually, too, in full stereo."

"If you've ever put a camcorder into standby mode whilst waiting to set up a shot, you'll know how infuriating it is when the unit decides to power down just as you're ready to record. The XL1S has a nice feature, called Power Save, which gives users the option of switching off all tape transport controls in favour of the camcorder and viewfinder. This is most useful when you're taking time to light a shot; you need to see the image through the cam, but you don't want to wear the record heads down. The Power Save utility helps enormously, and is a most welcome addition. Power consumption is a creditable one hour 55 minutes with the basic BP930/930R battery supplied, and 2 hours 55 mins with the optional BP945. With prudent use, we shot for a whole afternoon on the supplied battery."

"Located at the very rear of the cam - again behind a flap - are the various video and audio connectors, enabling output via composite RCA phono video, S-video and DV (FireWire).

These connectors also double-up as inputs, as the XL1S now also supports analogue inputs too. Recording from external video sources, such as Hi8, VHS or even straight from the TV, is now possible simply by connecting as appropriate and pressing the VCR Record button."

<font color="#a62a2a" size="1">[ November 09, 2003 03:40 PM: Message edited by: belovedmonster ]</font>

[Nigel]

Does anyone make a fully manual lens for the XL1. Like Fujinon or Cooke?? Something that does not use Servo motors at all?? When I have used this camera I hated the lens. Not only the zoom but the focus as well. Man the lens ***** .

Good Luck

[Alex]

I think the XL1s is more light sensitive, but I'm not sure.

One feature that I really liked was that you can store four different settings for set-up level, chroma intensity, hue, and video level.

The set-up level is crucial for getting control back from the manufacturers over the black detail. I think the factory setting went a bit overboard in increasing the contrast to make it look more like film.

This is the ost common mistake made in digital cinematography. You DECREASE contrast and wait until you go to your film print before you increase the contrast.